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2020年5月28日星期四
My recently completed man cave
My wife was driving force behind all of this. I can thank quarantine for forcing her to sit down here every day when she works. She had an idea, sketched it up, and put it all together in a little over two weeks.
Link to all the images:
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Save me from buying a track saw!
I'm being an idiot, I'll admit that right up front. But ripping sheet goods is making me hate my life. I used to always just suffer through cutting on my table saw. Terrible, but not the least accurate way I have cross cut sheets. I made some fairly successful cuts by doing a ton of setup work and clamping two levels, one on each side of the shoe of my P+C 18v saw. Which admittedly is under-powered for the job. But then a friend mentioned Harbor Freight has these $20 clamp on straight edges. Convenient, but I've never made crappier cuts in my life. So now I'm just like "F it, a cheap track saw can only be an improvement!"
Options I'm considering:
- Cheap track saw. Like the Wen.
- Giving up and getting over my resistance to cutting on the ground on a sheet of insulation. Hate the idea of storing and wasting insulation, but people seem happy with it.
- Getting a better straight guide, like a Bora NGX or a Kreig.
- P+C seems to be end of life, so I might as well start switching to a new tool system by plunking down $450 of the Makita 36V track saw, right? I mean, I make into the double digits of circ saw cuts a year, so it'll probably pay off in my lifetime, right?
- Make darn sure I over-cut, and then trim down using the table saw, and deal with the waste that my Tesla-driving-but-frugal-about-plywood ass will generate.
- Build a 1-axis CNC using aluminum extrusion to make the cuts for me. Robots with spinning blades, what could possibly go wrong?
- Some other clearly optimal solution I'm just not considering...
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Help on renovating a covered deck
Dear community. I recently bought a house with a covered deck. The deck was covered with outdoor carpet, after removing it this is what I found, picture http://imgur.com/gallery/gsW0gLB . Can you give me some ideas on how to remodel this deck on a budget. Thank you
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Can i pre stain wood b4 using it for epoxy art?
As title says im toying with epoxy river table stuff. Starting with cheep wood from home depot to learn my process & tools. I used to repair fiberglass for work so i have a fair epoxy knowledge but b4 i drop $400 in epoxy & $100 in cured live edge wood i figured id start small with end tables or cutting boards. My question is will epoxy bond well & solid without discoloring to stained wood? Or will it bleed color into epoxy? Or perhaps just repel the bond?
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2020年5月27日星期三
plywood thickness? on ceiling for retractable bike pulley system
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I am trying to hang my mountain bike. The ceiling studs are not well placed to put in a retractable pulley system (lots of examples on amazon). Unfortunately a piece of the pulley system is wider than a 2x6 so that wouldn't work for that portion of the pulley system. I have 1/2" plywood and was thinking it would be easier to screw this into the studs and then connect the pulley system then to the plywood. Plus it would be a consistent piece to paint. What size fasteners should I use with the plywood (not particle board but layered laminate) to ceiling? The screws that came with the pulley kit are ~1.5" and ~1/8" width (photo). Can i still use these on just plywood or should I use something else? Why or why not? [link] [comments] |
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Pitting in garage floor
I know that prep is a lot of garage floor work when doing epoxy so I’m wondering: if I go with Epoxy Coat, will that be able to fill in the pitting on my floor? I filled in the deeper spots with hydrologic cement but there’s a lot of pitting that I’d hope I wouldn’t have to trowel out. Was considering a self leveler but wondered instead if I can just use Epoxy Coat to fill in the imperfections.
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Help Request: How do I fix/replace the broken stem/hanger/clip of my vertical blinds?
I have looked at over 20 YouTube videos and they all say to slide it out, pry it out, or even drill. I tried that plus layers of super glue with no luck.
I really do not want to replace the whole rail as for my size of window it will be very pricy. $200+
Any tips or experts out there?
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Whirlpool dishwasher not draining
I have an older Whirlpool dishwasher that has suddenly decided not to drain at the end of a cycle. We can still use the machine and everything else seems to work ok. After doing a bit of research online, I’m guessing it’s the impeller but I’m not sure. I have no problem replacing it on my own if that’s what it is. But my issue is removing the dishwasher to work on it. It is connected to the hot water line via copper. I have never worked with copper and have no idea where to begin. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Here are some pictures that I hope will help explain. Thanks so much in advance Reddit!
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Curious about a lightweight hoist system for some heavy and awkward wood working pieces.
I need to consistently lift/raise ~550 lbs max about 12-16 inches off the ground. It’s for large woodworking pieces. Due to limited space and working alone, I can’t just flip them, jack from below, or lift them to reach areas I need for finish/detail work on the lower parts. My back is killing me from squatting and kneeling to get to these areas.
There are some affordable 440 lb electric hoists that seem viable if I have one at each end of 8-10 foot long pieces. I’m capable of mounting them securely to my ceiling joists in my shop and understand the rigging for my particular pieces.
The problem I’ve seen is that these cheaper hoists seem to be to setup for a fixed placement. It would be ideal to have two of them parallel running on a short track (~5-6ft), so I may do my work on one piece, lower it, and move over a few feet to pick another. I’m certain I could rig something with two of these hoists that would work safely, but there must be some lightweight ones meant for a track setup?
Admittedly, I’ve yet to dig too deep into this problem yet, but I thought I’d throw it out here in hopes of a simple solution.
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Am I doing these chain link fence measurements correctly?
I've got Lowe's installation instructions that say:
Terminal posts:
Chain link fabric height
+2" (to allow for attachment of the rail band and cap)
+ Depth of post in the ground
-------------------------------------------------
Total post height.
Line posts:
Chain link fabric height
-2" (to allow for the top rail)
+ Depth of post in the ground
-------------------------------------------------
Total post height.
I'm installing a 5' chain link fence. I bought 7' line posts and 7' terminal posts to have enough room to bury them. However, the actual fence fabric measurement is 58.75". Is that common for it to be an inch or more 'shorter' than the 5 feet (60 inches)? Should I be rounding to 59" or measuring to the T with everything exact? It is kind of confusing and the instructions say nothing about any of this.
For terminal posts, I'm taking the 84" of the post height, subtracting the 58.75 for the fence fabric and adding the 2" for the rail band and cap. That gives me 27.25" remaining to bury the post.
For line posts, I'm taking the 84" of the post height, subtracting the 58.75 for the fence fabric and subtracting the 2" to allow for the top rail. That gives me 23.25" remaining to buy the post.
I'm going to use a few inches of gravel first and then the concrete on top up until about 2" from the surface, then cover it with dirt after the concrete cures. I'm using fast setting concrete. Is my math on this going to check out and work out with the heights?
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Air filters and box fans
So I looked up an old post about attaching an air filter to a box fan for a DIY air purifier. I read enough to figure out that it won’t work to reasonable efficiency.
My question is, how well will a vent filter work to merely keep dust out of my box fan? I just finished taking apart my box fan to clean the dust out, and I’m not crazy about this dust buildup and the dust particles likely blowing in my face when I use it. Any tips on adding a filter to my box fan, or is it as easy as zip tying a $10 air filter to the back of my fan?
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i made a giant concrete ball!
Hope all is well fellow makers. I'm trying my best to stave off cabin fever and keep my two kids safe and sane during this shelter in place.
I made a giant concrete ball!
This was a fun project. I used a yoga ball (thanks amazon.com), wrapped in seran wrap, lathe/mesh tape and slathered it with a mix of Portland cement and sand. We were able to retrieve the yoga ball and I think I have enough sand and Portland left over to make another one. I'm currently making super smooth with quick setting joint compound. Once the wife picks a color, I'll paint it and plop in the garden, where she will inevitably change her mind about the color and repaint it again.
Hope all is well with everyone.
I'm starved for adult conversation, so please any questions, comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated.
pics of the build here...
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Garden bricks. Narrow or wide side facing front?
See photo. Are these right or should they be flipped around and the wide edge goes in back?
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2020年5月26日星期二
Auger to help dig patio base?
I'm trying to do a paver patio. So I started to dig and about 15 mins in, I realized how hard it is especially with the grass and roots. I have an auger, does it make sense to use it and break down the soil?
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Refinished Table - HELP!
Recently sanded and stained a dining room table and I can’t figure out why the table top isn’t showing the grain like the legs. I’ve sanded and stained both with the same process, but they look totally different. Can anyone explain why the top has such a different look?
Pics -> https://imgur.com/a/ciLZ0Jl
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I built a deck and poured my post piers before getting an inspection on the holes. What to do?
Hi,
I recently finished building a deck and, as the title says, already poured the concrete for my post piers before an inspector could come by to verify they are deep enough. I realize this was a big mistake and did not know at the time that an inspection like this was necessary (I thought there was only a final inspection). I know this now, so I am not looking for a lecture reminding me that I should have done more research, etc. Instead, I am looking for a solution to my problem.
Surely this has happened before, and I am not the only person who has ever done this. What can be done to prove the piers are deep enough? Dig an adjacent hole? Some sort of special tool? What will a city/county inspector do? Appreciate any suggestions.
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Building Raised Paver Patio. Any trade tricks to help level pavers?
I am building a 21’ x 13’ raised paver patio. The surface of the patio should be level with the garage floor outside of its back door. The patio will not be adjacent to the garage; instead, there is a 5” gap to allow space for channel drain.
The patio itself will have a perimeter made out of 14x7x3.5 retaining wall blocks. I have already laid out my mason string, dug a trench, laid about 4” of #57 stone, and packed it down with a tamper, and I am now laying the blocks for the perimeter. I am laying one course of blocks, with spacers on top, then will apply a layer of landscaping block adhesive, then set the top course of blocks.
I’m about half done with the perimeter wall. However, this entire time, it’s been a royal pain in the ass to get these bricks level. If I get the gravel level, then stack the blocks, it isn’t always level with my mason string. I have to add/remove gravel many times to get a block to line up correctly. Sometimes it takes me over an hour to get everything to line up correctly.
(And by correctly, I mean within an 1/8” of perfectly level, with zero block rocking).
Is there a trick to the trade for making this process faster? I’ve Googled to no avail; I just get tutorial after tutorial. And honestly, these blocks are getting incredibly heavy and my patience is wearing thin lol
The near left corner will have a pillar covering that PVC pipe sticking up (which is a pipe I buried 15” down to allow easy access to run new utilities). https://imgur.com/a/0lBDRaL
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